Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel reference 3797: Time to rise above the rest

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Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel reference 3797 in pink gold (3797BR/1E/9WU). It houses the Calibre 588QP2 manual-winding movement in a 41mm diameter case. Indicative pricing: SGD237,500 (Singapore dollars) / MYR535,000 (Malaysian Ringgit). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel reference 3797 in pink gold (3797BR/1E/9WU). It houses the Calibre 588QP2 manual-winding movement in a 41mm diameter case. Indicative pricing: SGD237,500 (Singapore dollars) / MYR535,000 (Malaysian Ringgit). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

Take a good look at the hour and minute hands on Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel reference 3797 and you’d notice something different about its chapter ring.

The chapter ring is actually sitting above the dial and an opaque offset sapphire disc with metallic Roman numerals is used. In other words, it rises above the rest – all else on the dial.

For the indication of time, the blued steel Breguet open-tipped minute hand travels above the sapphire disc chapter ring while the open-tipped hour hand revolves within the chapter ring.

The blued steel Breguet open-tipped hour and minute hands travel around the elevated sapphire disc chapter ring. At the 12 o’clock position is the retrograde date display. The day display is at 9 o’clock while the month indication is at 3 o’clock. The leap year indication is also at the 3 o’clock position. A revolving blue “sun” will indicate the year and this is currently hidden by the chapter ring and above year “2”. The leap year is indicated when this blue sun is at the “B” position which is year “4”. The tourbillon is at 6 o’clock and above it is the triple hand for the sweep seconds. From the example shown here, it is 12 past 6 on 30 March which is a Sunday. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

The blued steel Breguet open-tipped hour and minute hands travel around the elevated sapphire disc chapter ring. At the 12 o’clock position is the retrograde date display. The day display is at 9 o’clock while the month indication is at 3 o’clock. The leap year indication is also at the 3 o’clock position. A revolving blue “sun” will indicate the year and this is currently hidden by the chapter ring and above year “2”. The leap year is indicated when this blue sun is at the “B” position which is year “4”. The tourbillon is at 6 o’clock and above it is the triple hand for the sweep seconds. From the example shown here, it is 12 past 6 on 30 March which is a Sunday. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

There is plenty of information provided by this perpetual calendar watch. It provides the leap year indication (at 3 o’clock), the months (also at 3 o’clock), the day of the week (at 9 o’clock) and do not forget the retrograde date at 12 o’clock.

The years are represented by the numerals 1, 2, 3 and the letter “B” which is for the leap year. The current year is indicated by a rotating blue sun.

The one-minute tourbillon is at 6 o’clock.

At around 7 o’clock, you will be able to locate the Breguet secret signature.

The view from the case back of the Breguet reference 3797 features the movement base plate that is decorated with engravings, what the brand describes as a trellis (a support for creepers). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

The view from the case back of the Breguet reference 3797 features the movement base plate that is decorated with engravings, what the brand describes as a trellis (a support for creepers). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

From the rear, you will see engravings decorating the movement base plate and the escapement wheel making its 60-second rounds.

Bulgari “L’Ammiraglio del Tempo” – “The Admiral of Time”: The visible and the invisible

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Bulgari’s L’Ammiraglio del Tempo - “The Admiral of Time” featuring a detent escapement with minute repeater and constant force mechanism was introduced at the 2014 BaselWorld annual watch fair. Production is limited to 20 pieces in 18K pink gold and 10 pieces in 18K white gold. Priced at US$359,000 or around CHF350,000 / SGD490,000 / MYR1,172,000 (Malaysian Ringgit). The prototype was recently in store – at Bulgari’s new boutique at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore for a few days only. The hammers and Cathedral gongs are visible but where is the sliding mechanism for activating the minute repeater? Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Timmy / Elfa 2014

Bulgari’s L’Ammiraglio del Tempo – “The Admiral of Time” featuring a detent escapement with minute repeater and constant force mechanism was introduced at the 2014 BaselWorld annual watch fair. Production is limited to 20 pieces in 18K pink gold and 10 pieces in 18K white gold. Priced at US$359,000 or around CHF350,000 / SGD490,000 / MYR1,172,000 (Malaysian Ringgit). The prototype was recently in store – at Bulgari’s new boutique at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore for a few days only. The hammers and Cathedral gongs are visible but where is the sliding mechanism for activating the minute repeater? Photo: © TANG Portfolio.  Elfa / Timmy 2014

The main horological highlight for Bulgari at the 2014 Baselworld annual watch fair is the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo, otherwise known as “The Admiral of Time” when translated to English.

This high horology timepiece features the detent escapement with a cylindrical hairspring, a constant force mechanism and a minute repeater.

What is visible on the dial side? In addition to the hammers and the Cathedral gongs, the cylindrical hairspring (above) of the detent escapement can be seen on the dial side. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Timmy / Elfa BaselWorld 2014

What is visible on the dial side? In addition to the hammers and the Cathedral gongs, the cylindrical hairspring (above) of the detent escapement can be seen on the dial side. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.  Elfa / Timmy. BaselWorld 2014

The use of the detent escapement is inspired by the marine chronometer. In horological history, the marine chronometer, as we are told, can be deemed as one of the earliest timekeepers with high precision. One reason for the high precision is the use of the detent escapement.

This explains the name: L’Ammiraglio del Tempo or “The Admiral of Time”.

During the official opening of Bulgari’s new boutique at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore, the prototype of the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo was sighted within the store, under the watchful eyes of Bulgari’s Director of High-End Watches, Andrea Granalli.

Bulgari’s Admiral of Time minute repeater features the Westminster chime. On the dial side, the hammers, Cathedral gongs and even the cylindrical hairspring of the detent escapement are visible.

However, activation of the minute repeating function is a mystery as no sliding mechanism can be seen. The minute repeater cannot be activated by the crown.

Andrea Granalli, director of high-end watches, Bulgari, is the caretaker for the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo on its travels around the world. He is pointing at the lug that has to be lifted up to activate the minute repeater. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Timmy / Elfa 2014

Andrea Granalli, director of high-end watches, Bulgari, is the caretaker for the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo on its travels around the world. He is pointing at the lug that has to be lifted up to activate the minute repeater. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy 2014

The Admiral of Time has what is termed the “mysterious actuating system” whereby the minute repeater only sounds after the left lug at between the seven and eight o’clock positions is pushed sideways and “lifted” upwards.

Interestingly, the case back also pivots upwards in tandem.

As such, the “visible” features of the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo are the hammers, the cylindrical hairspring and Cathedral gongs while the “invisible” is its activating mechanism for the minute repeater.

Inside Bulgari’s flagship store located in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, B1-36/37 and B2-34/35, 2 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore. Jewellery, leather products, accessories, perfumes and watches can be found in this store. Photo: © Bulgari

Inside Bulgari’s flagship store located in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, B1-36/37 and B2-34/35, 2 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore. Photo: © Bulgari

It was an enlightening visit to the new Bulgari store at Marina Bay Sands, the largest for the brand in the region where jewellery, leather products, accessories, perfumes and timepieces from the brand can be found.