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The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon. On the left is the regular production piece (non-limited, priced at CHF14,900 or SGD21,800) and on the right is the Black Phantom limited edition of 250 pieces, priced at CHF19,900 or SGD29,100. Photo: © TAG Heuer

Why did the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T create a storm within the Swiss watchmaking industry?

Simple, given its key features – the in-house Manufacture movement with the chronograph function and tourbillon, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T, priced at CHF14,900 or SGD21,800, is a fraction of what a typical Swiss-made tourbillon would retail for.

Case back of the Carrera Heuer-02T where one can view the skeleton oscillating weight. The main technical challenge, according to the brand, was to house a single barrel, chronograph and automatic mechanism with the flying tourbillon within a diameter of 32mm. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.

In addition to the regular production piece offered, there is also a limited edition Carrera Heuer-02T, the Black Phantom, so-named because of its stealth look. Limited to 250 pieces, this version is priced at CHF19,900 or SGD29,100.

With such unheard of prices for a tourbillon, let alone a chronograph with tourbillon wristwatch, this Carrera Heuer-02T has gained attention worldwide as the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon that also features the chronograph function.

What’s more, one must also note that the self-winding Carrera Heuer-02T is chronometer-certified, has a power reserve of more than 65 hours and is water-resistant to 100 metres.

The TAG Heuer Black Phantom Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon. Limited to 250 pieces and priced at CHF19,900, this model has the stealth look. The Calibre Heuer-02T is COSC-certified, features more than 65 hours of power reserve when fully wound and is water-resistant to 100 metres. Photo: © TAG Heuer

The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with tourbillon symbolises “technology, exemplary quality, performance, manufacture expertise and the perfect mastery of industrial processes and manufacturing costs,” states the brand.

The price tag would definitely not have been possible if traditional watchmaking handcraftsmanship was involved as it would be economically unviable. We do note that traditional watchmaking handcraftsmanship was not mentioned as part of what the Carrera Heuer-02T symbolises.

This Carrera Heuer-02T further represents the continued investment and creativity of TAG Heuer, the brand adds, where avant-garde is the guding spirit, culture and philosophy.

A related article on timewerke.com is:
i. TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon explained.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon (Reference: CAR5A8Y.FC6377). Introduced in 2016, it houses the
Manufacture Calibre Heuer-02T automatic movement that is COSC-certified with the chronograph function and flying tourbillon in a 45mm diameter case made of grade 5 titanium. Priced at CHF14,900 / SGD21,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with TourbillonTAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon

The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T features not only the chronograph function but the flying tourbillon and its name comes from its movement – the Calibre Heuer-02T.

The Calibre Heuer-02T is an in-house Manufacture movement and it is COSC-certified (chronometer-certified).

This means that each and every Carrera Heuer-02T watch would have undergone 21 days of testing with the movements certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), an independent testing organisation that serves as a guarantee that the movements meet high accuracy standards when worn on the wrist.

According to the brand, the Calibre Heuer-02T was “… developed directly from the DNA of the CH 80 chronograph, used as a basis to interpret two of traditional watchmaking’s most famous complications: the chronograph (one of TAG Heuer’s strengths) and the aesthetically-pleasing tourbillon.”

The Calibre CH 80, which was presented in 2013, is TAG Heuer’s in-house integrated chronograph Manufacture movement beating at 4 Hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a vertical clutch that is produced at its workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Chevenez.

The main technical challenge, the brand adds, was to house a single barrel, the chronograph, the self-winding mechanism and the flying tourbillon within the movement’s diameter of 32mm, while ensuring that the counters on the dial were well-spaced for a modern, balanced look.

The flying tourbillon is lightweight because its central sections are made from titanium and it has a carbon top. The lightweight tourbillons are “handcrafted by four watchmakers, inspired by the Monaco V4’s tourbillon”, in an industrial framework developed tp “optimise assembly in TAG Heuer’s Chevenez workshops,” adds the brand.

The main components are produced in the workshops of TAG Heuer’s Manufacture and the balance spring is manufactured by Atokalpa. All fitting, assembly and adjustment work are performed by hand.

Based in Alle in the Juta Mountains, Atokalpa is owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation which has also invested in high-end movement maker Vaucher Manufacture and watch brand Parmigiani Fleurier. Atokalpa began industrial production of balance springs in 2011. [Reference: TimeWerke magazine Volume X, pages 255 to 261.]

The Carrera Heuer-02T features an automatic movement with the chronograph function and the flying tourbillon. This watch was one of the big surprises at BaselWorld 2016 as it was priced at CHF14,900. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.

The case, comprising 12 modular components, is made from grade 5 titanium and it is lightweight and shock-resistant. With modular components, future versions can come in a combination of materials, colours, treatments and finishes.

The Carrera Heuer-02T is not a limited edition piece and what is probably most attention-grabbing is its retail price of CHF14,900 or SGD21,800 for a chronograph and tourbillon wristwatch.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon
Reference: CAR5A8Y.FC6377
Introduced in 2016
Technical Specifications:
• Manufacture Calibre Heuer-02T automatic movement
• COSC-certified
• More than 65 hours power reserve
• Flying tourbillon
• Chronograph function
• Black column wheel
• Black skeleton bridges
• Carbon and titanium tourbillon cage
• Black skeleton dial with 2 counters, polished and satin-finished baton indexes, polished and satin-finished hands with SuperLuminova
• Chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph hour counter at 9 o’clock
• Black titanium bezel with the tachymeter scale
• Steel crown overmoulded with rubber
• 45mm diameter case in grade 5 titanium with 12 modular components (lugs, middle case, bezel, case back, crown and its moulding, push-buttons, gasket between the middle and the bezel and sapphire crystals)
• Water-resistant to 100m
• Matte black alligator strap sewn onto black rubber with matching stitching, deployant buckle with safety push-buttons

Another related article on timewerke.com is:
i. TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon: Why it created a “storm”.