Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon: Around 10

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On the wrist: the 45.5mm Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon in 18K red gold. Powered by the Val Fleurier Manufacture Calibre P951 manual-winding movement. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

On the wrist: the 45.5mm Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon in 18K red gold. Powered by the Val Fleurier Manufacture Calibre P951 manual-winding movement. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

At the recent Watches&Wonders exhibition held in Hong Kong in September 2013, the key highlight presented by Baume & Mercier was its Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon wristwatch in 18K red gold.

The main question for those not too familiar with the brand is probably “why?” The answer is basically related back to Baume & Mercier’s watchmaking history.

In 1892, Baume & Co’s Tourbillon Chronometer keyless pocket watch which was the company’s entry submission for the rating contest at the Kew Teddington Observatory’s chronometer competition in England scored 91.9 points out of the maximum of 100 possible.

The win meant that Baume’s Tourbillon Chronometer pocket watch was then the most accurate in the world. What was even more amazing was that this record was to remain unbeaten for a decade.

The Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon wristwatch is therefore an important statement piece, and as highlighted by the brand, pays tribute to its glorious past. Moreover, it serves as a reminder that Baume & Mercier is still actively involved in the watchmaking industry with its offering of “accurate and complicated watches.”

The Calibre P951 manual-winding movement powering the Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is produced by the Val Fleurier Manufacture which is ultimately owned by Baume & Mercier’s parent company, Compagnie Financière Richemont SA.

The Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is limited to 30 pieces. Priced at around US$60,000 / 45,000 euros / SGD75,000. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

The Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is limited to 30 pieces. Priced at around US$60,000 / 45,000 euros / SGD75,000. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

Limited to 30 pieces, we agree that this flying tourbillon wristwatch embodies Baume & Mercier’s “values of fine watchmaking” and it is a fitting model positioned at the top end of its Clifton Collection.

What’s more, the tourbillon positioned at the nine o’clock position is symbolic for us. Recall that Baume’s Tourbillon Chronometer pocket watch achieved 91.9 points?

Well, the tourbillon at the nine o’clock position reminds us of this record which stood for 10 years. Therefore, the numbers 9 and 10 are important and based on our own interpretation, having the tourbillon at around 10 is symbolic of Baume & Mercier’s storied past.

Omega Bullhead: Bull run

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Omega Bullhead reference 225.12.43.50.04.001 is the re-edition of the 1969 version. Check out the inner rotating bezel, controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock, with the 24-hour scale which can be used as a second time zone display. Priced at around US$10,000 / 7,200 euros / S$12,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

Omega Bullhead reference 225.12.43.50.04.001 is the re-edition of the 1969 version. Check out the inner rotating bezel, controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock, with the 24-hour scale which can be used as a second time zone display. Priced at around US$10,000 / 7,200 euros / S$12,400.
Photo: © TANG Portfolio

If you are seriously set on owning Omega’s new “Bullhead” launched this year at the annual BaselWorld watch fair, then maybe a “bull run” to your nearest authorised dealer or brand boutique to check this piece out should be the order of the day.

Why? It is official: the 2013 Omega Bullhead equipped with the Co-Axial Chronograph Calibre 3113 is a limited edition piece, with production of 669 pieces. It comes with a three-year warranty.

This 2013 Omega Bullhead in a 43mm by 43mm stainless steel case is a re-edition of the original 1969 Bullhead. Even at this size and with its uniquely-shaped case, the Bullhead fits snugly on small wrists.

Now was the first Omega Bullhead launched in 1969 or 1970? According to Petros Protopapas, museum manager, Omega SA, the prototype of the Omega Bullhead was created in 1968 and the working piece was introduced in 1969. It was in 1970 that the Omega Bullhead was launched into the markets.

One key feature of the Bullhead with the white dial shown above (Reference: 225.12.43.50.50.04.001) is the inner rotating bezel that is controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock.

The inner rotating bezel has a 24-hour scale with a day and night display – blue for the day and black for the night. This is useful as it can serve as a second time zone display.

From what we understand, this 24-hour scale on the inner rotating bezel can only be found on this Bullhead with a white dial.

There are other versions; the model with the silvery dial has a 60-minute scale on the inner rotating bezel (Reference: 225.12.43.50.02.001) and so has the version with the black dial. Do check the black dial model in our article: Omega Bullhead – No Bull based on what we saw in Basel in April 2013.