Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio PAM 587 Special Edition: For the Navy

Housed in a 47mm diameter case, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio or PAM00587, launched at the September 2014 Watches & Wonders exhibition in Hong Kong, is powered by the in-house Calibre P.3000 manual-winding movement with three days of power reserve. The PAM 587 is fitted with a 3mm thick Plexiglas and includes a spare piece. Limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at SGD13,200 / MYR32,400 / AUD10,900. Note: Prices are correct on publication date. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2014 Watches & Wonders Hong Kong

Housed in a 47mm diameter case, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio or PAM00587, launched at the September 2014 Watches & Wonders exhibition in Hong Kong, is powered by the in-house Calibre P.3000 manual-winding movement with three days of power reserve. The PAM 587 is fitted with a 3mm thick Plexiglas and includes a spare piece. Limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at SGD13,200 / MYR32,400 / AUD10,900. Note: Prices are correct on publication date. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2014 Watches & Wonders Hong Kong

The PAM 587 Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio in stainless steel launched at the September 2014 Watches & Wonders exhibition in Hong Kong features “historic details” like those once made for the Italian Navy.

In the historical Radiomir divers’ wristwatch made by Panerai, its case diameter was 47mm thereby resulting in a large dial and with its “auto-luminescent hands and numerals… made it easily legible in all light conditions,” as stated in the book La Panerai di Firenze by Dino Zei.

The 2014 PAM 587 is also housed in a 47mm case, which according to the brand, is “the standard size for watches made for the commandos of the Navy because they had to be worn over a wet suit.”

The dial structure comprises “superimposed discs with Super-Luminova between them”; in other words, it is a sandwich dial. One reason why the PAM 587 is special is because there is no Panerai branding on its black dial which instead has the words “Marina Militare” inscribed on it.

The Italian words “Marina Militare” means Navy when translated to English. The “Marina Militare” inscription on the upper half of the dials of historical Panerai watches followed the request of the Italian Navy and such divers’ wristwatches were made exclusively for them from the 1930s to the early 1950s.

Panerai made reproductions of these watches with such designs in 1993. [Source: La Panerai di Firenze by Dino Zei.]

Between the lugs of the PAM 587 Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio, one will be able to read the model number of the watch (PAM00587) and its case reference number.

Instead of sapphire crystal, a slightly cambered Plexiglas is used and a spare can be found in the pear wood watch presentation box.

Take note of the pointed hour and minute hands on the PAM 587 as these are similar to those found on historical models.

The PAM 587 Panerai Radiomir 1940 Marina Militare 3 Days Acciaio is powered by the brand’s in-house P.3000 manual-winding movement which has three days of power reserve once fully wound. The movement is visible from the rear as the watch has a sapphire crystal display case back.

The PAM 587 is a special edition model that is limited to 1,000 pieces.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements: Beauty Marks

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Indian Manuscript”. Reference 33580/000R-9959. Introduced in 2014, it features the Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand-engraved dial with a polished ring. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Indian Manuscript”.
Reference 33580/000R-9959. Introduced in 2014, it features the Grand Feu champlevé enamelling and hand-engraved dial with a polished ring. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

The four ladies wristwatches that make up the Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements launched in 2014 are the result of the craftsmanship from ten different master artisans from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture.

Together, they have combined their skills to create feminine timepieces that are their re-interpretations of Ottoman architecture, Chinese embroidery, Indian manuscripts and French lacework respectively.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Ottoman Architecture”. Reference 33580/000R-9906. Introduced in 2014, it is powered by the Calibre 1003SQ manual-winding movement and features a white mother-of-pearl dial under an openworked 18K gold plate that is hand-chamfered and adorned with applied half pearls and a knurled ring. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Ottoman Architecture”.
Reference 33580/000R-9906. Introduced in 2014, it is powered by the Calibre 1003SQ manual-winding movement and features a white mother-of-pearl dial under an openworked 18K gold plate that is hand-chamfered and adorned with applied half pearls and a knurled ring. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

The artisans’ skills cover guillochage, Grand Feu enamelling, the use of diamonds, pearls and mother-of-pearl, engraving, glyptics and gemstone cloisonné.

The movement powering the watches is the ultra-flat Calibre 1003 manual-winding movement.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “French Lace”. Reference 33580/000G-9903. Introduced in 2014 and featuring hand-guilloché and translucent Grand Feu enamelling, an openworked 18K gold plate and set with blue and pink sapphires, and diamonds (13 sapphires of approx. 0.06 carats and 40 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.13 carats) including a diamond ring set with 60 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.2 carats. The bezel set with 64 diamonds of approx. 0.89 carats. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “French Lace”. Reference 33580/000G-9903. Introduced in 2014 and featuring hand-guilloché and translucent Grand Feu enamelling, an openworked 18K gold plate and set with blue and pink sapphires, and diamonds (13 sapphires of approx. 0.06 carats and 40 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.13 carats) including a diamond ring set with 60 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.2 carats. The bezel set with 64 diamonds of approx. 0.89 carats. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia


We would term such decorations on the wristwatches “beauty marks” or “beauty spots”, just like the unforgettable facial mole which became a trademark of Marilyn Monroe.
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Chinese embroidery”. Reference 333580/000R-9904. Introduced in 2014, it features the hand-engraved stone cloisonné (pink opale), glyptic of ruby, garnet and cuprite of approx. 1.4 carats), diamond-ring set with 60 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.2 carats. The bezel set with 64 diamonds of approx. 0.89 carats. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements “Chinese embroidery”.
Reference 333580/000R-9904. Introduced in 2014, it features the hand-engraved stone cloisonné (pink opale), glyptic of ruby, garnet and cuprite of approx. 1.4 carats), diamond-ring set with 60 round-cut diamonds of approx. 0.2 carats. The bezel set with 64 diamonds of approx. 0.89 carats. Priced at SGD218,100 / MYR520,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Special thanks to Christine Chia

As to why such craftsmanship is deeply-rooted in Vacheron Constantin’s history, one must remember that the first known watch made by Jean-Marc Vacheron in 1755 already featured an openworked and engraved balance cock.