Clé de Cartier: Cle-arly Defined

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Clé de Cartier, introduced in 2015. It features the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement housed in a 35mm diameter case in 18K white gold and is set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Clé de Cartier, introduced in 2015. It features the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement housed in a 35mm diameter case in 18K white gold and is set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

There is no doubting that Cartier’s timepieces have a strong identity. While many can strongly associate the brand with its dial designs featuring Roman numerals, the sole use of this numeric system for the brand’s identity simply isn’t the case, literally.

The watchcase is another key factor that has clearly defined Cartier’s timepieces. The brand has a legacy and well-known track record for it. Examples include the Santos, Tank and in more recent times, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier timepieces.

The famed Santos wristwatch for example, was said to have been first designed in 1904 by Louis Cartier (1875 to 1942) himself for his good friend, the pioneer aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873 to 1932).

Then there is the legendary Cartier Tank watch, first said to have been created in 1917. However, it was only officially launched and marketed in 1919.

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier was launched in 2007 and in less than a decade, has already become highly identifiable with the brand.

Clé de Cartier, introduced in 2015. This fully-paved piece features the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement housed in a 35mm diameter case in 18K white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Clé de Cartier, introduced in 2015. This fully-paved piece features the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement housed in a 35mm diameter case in 18K white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

In 2015, the Maison introduced a new case design for a collection known as Clé de Cartier where its shape is inspired by the pure lines in architecture.

The French word clé means “key” when translated to English. In addition to the shape of the case, the other strong feature is the crown with the sapphire, which is described as “jewel-like” and “key-like” by the brand.

The crown was designed to resemble a key, hence the use of the French word clé. In short, the crown is the key (pun intended) design feature.

The new Clé de Cartier collection includes both gents and ladies timepieces. For the gentlemen, the case of the Clé de Cartier is 40mm while that for ladies is smaller, at either 35mm or 31mm.

For gentlemen, there is the larger 40mm diameter Clé de Cartier in 18K white gold which is also powered by the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

For gentlemen, there is the larger 40mm diameter Clé de Cartier in 18K white gold which is also powered by the Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

The use of the key-like crown design is actually “cle-ver” as the brand has also highlighted that watches of the past were once wound and set by the use of keys. That is why many vintage timepieces are described as “key-winding”.

Moreover, the initial Clé de Cartier collection launched at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva features the in-house Manufacture Calibre 1847 MC automatic movement.

Naming the movement the Calibre 1847 is very apt as that was the year the then 28-year old Louis François Cartier (1819 to 1904) first established his business in Paris.

Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur: Flower Power

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Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. Introduced in 2015, it features the flying tourbillon with automaton mechanism. The magnolia flower is between six o’clock and nine o’clock. The flying tourbillon is under five flower petals of the magnolia flower and it blooms in passing every five minutes. The flower can also bloom on demand via activation of the pusher at nine o’clock. Limited to 30 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. Introduced in 2015, it features the flying tourbillon with an automaton mechanism. The magnolia flower is between six o’clock and nine o’clock. The flying tourbillon is under five flower petals of the magnolia flower and it blooms in passing every five minutes. The petals are open in the above image.  The flower can also bloom on demand via activation of the pusher at nine o’clock. Limited to 30 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

The flower you see towards the left on the Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur is no ordinary flower. In fact, it is an exceptional one.

That is because it is a magnolia flower. “The magnolia was chosen as its existence marks millions of years on Earth even before the emergence of bees within the environment, flowering in an endless cycle of birth and regeneration.

“The magnolia’s delicate appearance stands in sharp contrast to its strong organic structure and resilience in difficult environments,” explains the brand.

Time should be taken to appreciate the Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur for the magnolia flower surrounding the tourbillon “with five delicate, hand-created and coloured petals” will open and close either in passing or on demand via activation of the pusher at 9 o’clock.

The magnolia flower in a closed position will “hide” the flying tourbillon beneath (left). The magnolia flower will bloom every five minutes. As all five petals open, the flying tourbillon with its stone-set “stamen” will rise by one millimetre. Photo: © Richard Mille.

The magnolia flower in a closed position will “hide” the flying tourbillon beneath (left). The magnolia flower will bloom every five minutes (right). As all five petals open, the flying tourbillon with its stone-set “stamen” will rise by one millimetre. Photo: © Richard Mille.

Left by itself, the magnolia will open (bloom) and close “with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet”, as described by the brand.

What we recommend is to carefully observe this mechanical magnolia as it blooms because the brand has chosen to mimick nature “… in the most exquisitely extreme manner possible.

“The magnolia does not just open, the entire flying tourbillon with its stone-set stamen actually moves upwards by one millimetre when fully opened, exactly copying the natural motion of the flower arching upwards of its stamen to increase its chances of pollination”.

Speaking of improving the odds, the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie held in Geneva was manned, or should we say “wo-manned” by at least two very sexy ladies decorated with flowers to attract the “birds and the bees”.

Thankfully, we didn’t hear of any incidents involving “beasts” (pun intended).

One of the female models decorated with flowers seen within the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

One of the female models decorated with flowers seen within the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. And yes, she is wearing a Richard Mille wristwatch. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

To attract more visitors to the Richard Mille booth, there were two other ladies, also decked in flowers, who were walking around the fairgrounds, distributing flowers to the visitors.

We view such extra attention as positive as the Richard Mille RM 19-02 watch, limited to only 30 pieces, is definitely worth viewing. The flower ladies were wearing Richard Mille watches such as the diamond-set RM 007.

The “secret” behind the mechanical magnolia flower is a complex mechanism comprising five levers surrounding the underside of the petals and another system combined with a long pinion that is used to raise the flying tourbillon and stamen upwards within the flower’s circumference.

All the energy required comes from a second separate winding barrel. According to the brand, adjusting the opening and closing cycles is possible.

As for the flowering cycle on the RM 19-02, the five petals in 18K gold enter into “full bloom” every five minutes to reveal the flying tourbillon which rises as well. In addition, viewing of the “full bloom” can be made on demand, thanks to the pusher at 9 o’clock.