Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova: Up to the Mark. Hooyah!

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The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is a new addition and extension to the brand’s core Colormark Collection. A preview for the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova was held in Langkawi, Malaysia in September 2015 and it was organized by Crystal Time, distributors for the brand in Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei. Strapped over the watch: The SEAL Team Physical Training rubber strap with the words: “Hooyah” given by its CEO John McGuire. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Langkawi, Malaysia 2015

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is a new addition and extension to the brand’s core Colormark Collection. A preview for the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova was held in Langkawi, Malaysia in September 2015 and it was organized by Crystal Time, distributor of the brand in Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei. Strapped over the watch: The SEAL Team Physical Training rubber wrist band with the words: “Hooyah” was given by SEAL Team PT CEO John McGuire. The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is priced at SGD595 before GST (tax). McGuire’s SEAL Team PT rubber wrist band not included. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Langkawi, Malaysia 2015. With special thanks to Mr Tan Soo Khoon, Mrs Jennifer Tan, Pamela Tan, Magdalene Tan, Lambert Hui, Jason Ti, Vanessa Wong and Florence Tan of Crystal Time.

Timing and precision are obviously important for all watch brands. While many will speak about these, few will provide good practical examples, let alone explain how crucial timing and precision are in actual real-life situations.

For us, Luminox is one of the few. Many watch enthusiasts will undoubtedly be familiar with this brand that has long been associated with the US Navy SEALs (the acronym for Sea Air and Land), America’s famed special operations military unit.

In fact, the association spans more than two decades as Luminox first supplied the US Navy Seals with watches in 1993. The rest, as they say, is history.

The style of that first watch supplied to the US Navy SEALS, the model 3001, was subsequently produced and marketed commercially by Luminox (now under the Original Navy SEAL 3000 Series).

What is noteworthy is that its case back bears the engraving of the US Navy SEAL logo – the US Warfare Insignia which is better known as the “SEAL Trident” or the “Budweiser” because of its resemblance to the Anheuser-Busch logo (which is better known for its beer brands Budweiser, Stella-Artois and Beck’s).

When Crystal Time, the distributor of Luminox watches in Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, gave a preview of the 2015 Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova collection in September 2015 in Langkawi, Malaysia, they had ex-Navy SEAL John McGuire on hand as the brand’s spokesperson.

Langkawi is part of Malaysia and is an archipelago made up of 99 islands located on the country’s west coast. The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is a new collection that will be officially launched in November 2015.

This is the prototype of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark NOVA which we first viewed and handled in July 2015. Do note that the Luminox logo here is not coloured unlike the final version. The circular hour indexes including the bar markers and triangular reference at 12 o’clock are coated with SuperLuminova. The 12 white bars at the periphery of the dial are the micro gas tubes containing tritium. These will for 25 years and are self-illuminating especially in darkness. This long-term luminescence is the key characteristic of Luminox watches. The sweep seconds hand also carries a micro gas tube. Observe that only the markings for the first twenty minutes on the rotatable bezel are in colour. The bezel also has a micro gas tube at the 60-minute reference or its 12 o’clock position. The date display is at three o’clock. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Langkawi, Malaysia 2015

This is the prototype of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova which we first viewed and handled in July 2015. Do note that the Luminox logo on the dial of this prototype is not coloured unlike the final version. Compare the logo on this dial with the sample seen in the first image at the start of this article. The circular hour indexes including the bar markers and triangular reference at 12 o’clock are coated with SuperLuminova. The 12 white bars at the periphery of the dial are the micro gas tubes containing tritium. These will for 25 years and are self-illuminating especially in darkness. This long-term luminescence is the key characteristic of Luminox watches. The hour, minute and  sweep seconds hands all carry a micro gas tube. Observe that only the markings for the first twenty minutes on the rotatable bezel are in colour. The bezel also has a micro gas tube at the 60-minute reference or its 12 o’clock position. The date display is at three o’clock. This is a prototype and not for sale. We do like the “stealth” branding though. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015

McGuire was a former US Navy SEAL (first class petty officer) and sniper who had served for 10 years. Now what better way to introduce a watch built for the extremes by a former military man and best of all, a former US Navy SEAL?

“Timing is extremely important in military operations. For example, you have to be at the right location at the scheduled time for your helicopter pick-up or you will miss it. This is especially true for snipers after their missions,” explains McGuire, adding that synchronized timing is just as important during missions.

We must also add, based on our experience, that Luminox is probably the first brand for us that made a conscious attempt to explain and demonstrate how time on different wristwatches, whether quartz or mechanical, can be perfectly synchronized such that all members of a group can share one standard time precisely. It was interesting to note that not many knew beforehand how to perform this action.

Moreover, signalling to your comrades or commencing a military activity at the wrong time may potentially lead to a mission failure. “All it takes is one person in your team to screw up,” states McGuire matter-of-factly.

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is an extension of the core Colormark family. For example, there is the Navy SEAL Colormark 3050 Series and its younger sibling is the Original Navy Seal 3000 Series.

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova prototypes as seen in July 2015. Five colours will be made available. The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova resulted from a collaboration between Crystal Time and Luminox. : © TANG Portfolio. July 2015

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova prototypes as seen in July 2015. Observe and you will see that the Luminox logo is not coloured. Five colours of the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova will be made available. The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova resulted from a collaboration between Crystal Time and Luminox. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. July 2015

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is available in five colours: white, orange, red, green and yellow. The watches are powered by Swiss Ronda 5030.D quartz movements and each comes with a rubber strap. A matching Zulu strap, what the brand calls the webbing strap, is included as a bonus.

The new features of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova pertain to the hour indexes on the dial and what is termed the 20-minute diving countdown markings on the rotating bezel.

The first 20-minute markings on the rotating bezel are in colour and it will be similar to the colour reference on the dial of the respective model. This is the 20-minute countdown.

Rather than Arabic numerals from 1 to 12 (with the exception of 3 because that is where the date display window is), these are now replaced by eight SuperLuminova-coated circles on the dial for the 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10 and 11 hour indexes. Bar indexes, also in SuperLuminova, are at the six and nine o’clock hour indexes and a SuperLuminova-coated triangular reference is at 12 o’clock.

Previous and current Colormark watches like those in the Navy Seal Colormark 3050 Series and the Original Navy SEAL 3000 Series have Arabic numeral hour indexes that are not coated with SuperLuminova. This is therefore the first time SuperLuminova is used on the dials of the Luminox Colormark family of watches.

The final version of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is available in five colours: from left-to-right: red, white, green, yellow and orange. Each watch comes with a Pelican waterproof protective case and an additional Zulu strap or what they term the “webbing strap” in a colour that complements the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova chosen. Each Luminox Navy SEAL Nova is priced at SGD595 before tax. Photo: © Crystal Time

The final version of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is available in five colours: from left-to-right: red, white, green, yellow and orange. Each watch comes with a Pelican waterproof protective case and an additional Zulu strap or what they term the “webbing strap” in a colour that complements the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova chosen. Each Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is priced at SGD595 before tax. Photo: © Crystal Time

The use of the characteristic micro borosilicate gas tubes which the brand terms the Luminox Light Technology (LLT), remains. A total of 12 of these are found at the periphery of the dial and are also hour markers that are especially useful for telling time in total darkness. A third micro gas tube is found on the rotatable bezel and at the 60th minute (or 12 o’clock) reference.

These micro gas tubes contain the radioluminescent material known as tritium and they will glow continuously for up to 25 years without the need for any “charging” as they are independent of any light source.

On the other hand, SuperLuminova is a photo-luminescent material where energy obtained to illuminate itself in darkness is from electromagnetic radiation. In other words, SuperLuminova has to be “charged” by an external light source.

If the external light source is strong, the SuperLuminova’s brightness will likewise be strong because of what is absorbed but do note that the light emitted will be at a lower frequency than the original source.

Moreover, the luminescence of SuperLuminova will fade after a few hours (unlike the micro gas tubes with tritium). The diminishing luminescence is known as “decay”.

For us, the use of the word “Nova” is meaningful as a nova can be described as a star that has suddenly become thousands of times brighter due to an explosion but its brightness will gradually return to its original intensity.

Now recall that the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova features SuperLuminova-coated circles as hour indexes. How the nova comes full circle (pun intended) sounds very much like how SuperLuminova works. That is why for us, the circular design is extremely apt. We must also add that it is a bright idea (pun definitely intended).

The idea for the new design of Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova was the result of the collaboration between Crystal Time and Luminox.

With the addition of the SuperLuminova-coated hour markers, luminescence on the Navy SEAL Colormark Nova watches is intensified in darkness, especially when the SuperLuminova is well-charged. Even after full “decay” of the SuperLuminova, one can still read the time in total darkness because of the micro gas tubes.

The US Navy SEAL Trident logo or “Budweiser” is engraved on the case back of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova which features a mineral glass case and is water-resistant to 200m. The 2015 ANU Series (Authorised for Navy Use) such as the ANU Chronograph 4240 does not carry the Navy SEAL logo but a modified version. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

The US Navy SEAL Trident logo or “Budweiser” is engraved on the case back of the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova which features a mineral glass case and is water-resistant to 200m. The 2015 ANU (Authorised for Navy Use) Series such as the ANU Chronograph 4240 does not carry the Navy SEAL logo but a modified version. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

“We wanted to pay tribute to Luminox’s core identity as the brand that ‘owns the night’. Therefore, the Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova is infused with an extra edge of luminosity with SuperLuminova on the circular indices of the dial whilst retaining the core LLT [Luminox Light Technology] to celebrate the ‘light’ within the Luminox brand identity,” explains Pamela Tan, senior brand manager, Crystal Time.

This is without a doubt, a wonderful two-in-one “bright idea” product. These colourful Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova watches are up to the mark as robust and reliable timekeeping instruments for the masses.

The Luminox Navy SEAL Colormark Nova will be officially launched in November 2015 and before the watches hit the stores, we would like to offer Luminox and Crystal Time a strong and loud shout of encouragement with the typical US Navy battle cry Instructor McGuire taught us to exclaim with commitment: Hooyah!

Watches&Wonders 2015 – Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC 47mm PAM 629: Case in Point

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Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC 47mm in titanium with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating and the famously unmistakable California dial. This is the first time a California dial is on a Luminor case. The California dial was used on the first Panerai prototype watch in 1936. Launched at Watches&Wonders at end-September 2015, this watch has our vote because of the many firsts associated with the California dial in Panerai’s history. Priced at EUR11,400 / HK$91,000. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2015, Hong Kong

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC 47mm in titanium with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating and the famously unmistakable California dial. This is the first time a California dial is on a Luminor case. The California dial was used on the first Panerai prototype watch in 1936. Launched at Watches&Wonders at end-September 2015, this watch has our vote because of the many firsts associated with the California dial in Panerai’s history. Limited to 300 pieces. Priced at EUR11,400 / HK$91,000. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2015, Hong Kong

Panerai’s Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC 47mm or PAM 629, launched at the recently concluded Watches&Wonders 2015 exhibition (30 September to 3 October 2015) and held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, marks yet another first for the “California” dial made famous by this brand.

What is the California dial? The California dial is characterized by half-Arabic, half-Roman numerals for its hour indexes.

The top half of the dial features the Roman numerals I, II, X and XI, while the lower half has the Arabic numerals 4, 5, 7 and 8. The indexes for 3, 6 and 9 are represented by bar indexes while a triangular symbol is at 12 o’clock.

The California dial style is said to have been first used by Rolex for its Bubble Backs in the 1930s.

In 1936, Panerai supplied its first prototype watch to the Royal Italian Navy and it is generally accepted that it was a Radiomir watch ref. 3646 equipped with a Rolex movement, the California dial and wire loop handles that held the leather straps for securing the watch to the wrist.

In other words, the California dial marked a first as it was used for Panerai’s earliest-known diver’s watch supplied to the Royal Italian Navy. One must also not forget that this Radiomir ref. 3646 of 1936 with the California dial was the first watch in Panerai’s history.

It was only in 2006 that Panerai created a version that was based on their first diver’s watch with the California dial and it was named the Radiomir 1936 or PAM 249 which became highly sought-after.

Since then, there have been a few more Panerai watches featuring the California dial but these have all been housed in Radiomir cases. One example will be the PAM 424 in steel featuring the California dial with a date display launched in 2012.

Panerai’s Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC 47mm or PAM00629 is one of two special editions that was launched at Watches&Wonders 2015.

The PAM 629 or Panerai Luminor 1950 3 days Titanio DLC 47mm is powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre P.3000 manual-winding movement with 72 hours or three days of power reserve. Photo: © Panerai

The PAM 629 or Panerai Luminor 1950 3 days Titanio DLC 47mm is powered by the brand’s in-house Calibre P.3000 manual-winding movement with 72 hours or three days of power reserve. Photo: © Panerai

What makes the PAM 629 truly special? “This is the first time the California dial is used on a Luminor case,” says Alessandro Ficarelli, product development director, Panerai, who by the way, celebrates his 10th anniversary with the brand in 2015. He joined the brand in 2005 – the year Panerai launched its first in-house movement, the P.2002.

The Luminor case refers to modern-day Panerai watchcases (from 1993 onwards) with the characteristic lever-operated crown-locking mechanism.

The case with this lever device that protected the crown, which is now an iconic design feature for Panerai, was designed in 1950, according to the brand. This crown protector is meant to improve the water-resistance of the case

As explained in the book Panerai in Florence: 150 years of history, this was a patented mechanism that “… made it possible to considerably increase the seal of Panerai’s diver’s watches in that, when the lever was lowered, the winding crown was pushed axially against the watchcase, causing the compression of its own seal”.

Fans and collectors of Panerai should note that there are two types of modern-day Luminor cases: the “Luminor 1950” case for instance, has been designed with proportions faithful in every detail to the watches of that era.

The first modern-day Panerai Luminor 1950 with a reproduction of this historic case was launched in 2002 and it was for the PAM 127 special edition watch.

Panerai watches with the “Luminor 1950” designations are therefore those with cases designed to be like the original of 1950.

The PAM 127 with the Luminor 1950 case is also known as the “Fiddy” for the “1950” inscribed on the dial. However, this is not the case (pun intended) for the PAM 629 as historically, it has a dial with no branding nor text to positively identify the manufacturer as it was supposed to be used by the Italian commandos for their military missions.

There is still a “1950” year marking on the PAM 127 though. It can actually be found engraved on the lever locking the winding crown.

Panerai watches housed in Luminor cases without the “1950” designation and featuring the lever device have designs that are slightly revised. Production of such modified cases with the crown protection mechanism first began in 1993.

As highlighted by the brand: “It can therefore be said that the Luminor case was inspired by the modern history of Panerai while the Luminor 1950 case was linked to the past history of the brand: the legendary story of the commandos and their missions”.

The PAM 629 or Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC is housed in a case made of titanium, as its name also implies while not forgetting that its case is similar to the original of 1950.

What is different from the original of 1950 though, is not just the material but the colour – this 47mm case in titanium has a black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating. It is powered by the P.3000 manual-winding in-house movement.

As the first California dial in a Luminor 1950 case, there is no doubting why the PAM 629 has been classified as a special edition.

We do believe that the PAM 629 makes a strong case (pun intended) for those considering a Panerai watch, whether as their first or yet another for their collection.