PAM 785 Special Edition Set: Panerai Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC and Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio – “Slytechs” without Slytech

Panerai Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio 44mm. Introduced in 2014 and powered by the Panerai Calibre P.5000 manual-winding movement featuring 8 days of power reserve. This Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio is sold together with the Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC – The Special Edition Luminor Black Seal and Luminor Daylight Set – PAM 785 which is limited to 500 sets. Recommended retail price: SGD26,450 / MYR65,100 / AUD23,000. Prices are correct as at the time of writing. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2014

Panerai Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio 44mm. Introduced in 2014 and powered by the Panerai Calibre P.5000 manual-winding movement featuring 8 days of power reserve. This Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio is sold together with the Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC – The Special Edition Luminor Black Seal and Luminor Daylight Set – PAM 785 which is limited to 500 sets. Recommended retail price: SGD26,450 / MYR65,100 / AUD23,000. Prices are correct as at the time of writing. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2014

While Hollywood action movie star Sylvester Stallone is best known for two leading characters, “Rocky Balboa” and “John Rambo”, in the movies, he is probably not as well remembered as “Kit Latura”, even for most hardcore Panerai fans.

However, Panerai fans will be more familiar with the 1996 movie that Stallone played Latura: Daylight. This is simply because this particular movie can be said to be the international launch pad for Panerai.

Stallone, who got acquainted with Panerai watches after purchasing them in Italy, had requested for a special Luminor watch to be used for the underwater filming sequences in the movie. The movie’s production schedules included the filming of sequences in Italy.

In the Daylight movie, Stallone can be seen sporting the 44mm Panerai Luminor Submersible. Given its size and water-resistance, this Luminor Submersible from a relatively unknown watch brand then, was the perfect candidate and has our vote for the best supporting role in an action movie.

While Daylight did not become as successful as the Rambo and Rocky movies, it brought Panerai to international stardom in a big way. As one Panerai brand manager had once explained to us more than a decade ago: “Sylvester Stallone was the ‘accidental ambassador’ for the brand.”

Stallone even approached Panerai for watches that would bear his name. As he was known as “Sly” to his friends, this led to the “Slytech” moniker that would be seen on the dials.

Eventually, four limited series models bearing the “Slytech” name were produced: the Slytech Luminor Submersible, the Slytech Luminor Daylight and two versions of the Slytech Mare Nostrum.

The Slytech Luminor Daylight is the obvious inspiration for the 2014 Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio.

As for the Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC which is the second watch in the PAM 785 Special Edition Set, the original inspiration becomes a little fuzzy for us.

The original Slytech Luminor Submersible of 1996 was in steel and did not have a black case. Neither was it called the “Black Seal”.

Panerai Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC 44mm. Introduced in 2014, it is equipped with the Panerai Calibre P.5000 manual-winding movement with 8 days of power reserve. The steel case is coated with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and the watch is water-resistant to 30 bar (approx 300m). This Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC is sold together with the Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio as a set – The Special Edition Luminor Black Seal and Luminor Daylight Set – PAM 785 that is limited to 500 sets. Recommended retail price: SGD26,450 / MYR65,100 / AUD23,000. Prices are correct as at the time of writing. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2014

Panerai Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC 44mm. Introduced in 2014, it is equipped with the Panerai Calibre P.5000 manual-winding movement with 8 days of power reserve. The steel case is coated with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and the watch is water-resistant to 30 bar (approx 300m). This Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC is sold together with the Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio as a set – The Special Edition Luminor Black Seal and Luminor Daylight Set – PAM 785 that is limited to 500 sets. Recommended retail price: SGD26,450 / MYR65,100 / AUD23,000. Prices are correct as at the time of writing. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. Watches&Wonders 2014

However, there is the somewhat mythical Slytech Luminor Black Seal in steel that was black PVD-coated. This “fifth Slytech” – the Slytech Black Seal was supposed to be commercially produced but it did not happen following the sale of Panerai to the Vendôme Luxury Group in 1997.

In other words, the Slytech Luminor Black Seal did not get to see commercial daylight (pun most definitely intended).

However, five Slytech Luminor Black Seal prototypes are said to have been produced in 1997. The “Black Seal” refers to the Siluro a Lenta Corsa (SLC) or slow-speed torpedoes used by Italian Navy commandos during the Second World War.

Regardless, the Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC is for us, one cool mysterious piece, albeit without the “Slytech” text. Ditto for the Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio.

Both the Luminor Daylight 8 Days Acciaio and the Luminor Black Seal 8 Days Acciaio DLC have been paired to form the Special Edition PAM 785 limited edition with only 500 of such sets available.

These two 2014 Luminor watches stay very faithful to the originals of the mid-1990s even though they are “Slytechs without the Slytech” and make a tempting offering for those who enjoy pre-Vendôme Panerai timepieces.

The world’s first wristwatch minute repeater: Still sound

There is no branding on this wristwatch with the enamel dial but this is a historically significant piece. This is the 1892 Louis Brandt minute repeater in 18K red gold – the world’s first wristwatch with the minute repeater. The movement, with the serial number 2416, is a Lépine lever escapement calibre that was manufactured by Audemars Piguet. Special thanks to David Ponzo and Petros Protopapas. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy 2014.

There is no branding on this wristwatch with the enamel dial but this is a historically significant piece. This is the 1892 Louis Brandt minute repeater in 18K red gold – the world’s first wristwatch with the minute repeater. The movement, with the serial number 2416, is a Lépine lever escapement calibre that was manufactured by Audemars Piguet. Special thanks to David Ponzo and Petros Protopapas. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy 2014.

Which watch brand debuted the world’s first wristwatch minute repeater?

Would you be surprised if the answer is Omega? Well, technically, it is correct. However, the more precise answer is Louis Brandt.

This is actually a difficult question and it is just like asking: When was Omega founded?

The history of Omega dates back to 1848 when Louis Brandt (1825 to 1879) establishes an assembly workshop or comptoir d’establissage in La Chaux-de-Fonds in Switzerland.

It was only in 1877 that Louis Brandt created the company Louis Brandt & Fils with his son, Louis-Paul.

After his passing in 1879, his sons Louis-Paul and César assumed control of the company and transformed it into a manufacturer of in-house movements.

Their company made movements and trademarked their mechanical calibres under names such as Louis Brandt, Gurzelen and Labrador.

In 1889 and with an annual production of 100,000 units, Louis Brandt was then Switzerland’s largest single watch manufacturer.

While Louis Brandt’s first few brands were Jura, Patria and Helvetia, it was a movement that would become world-famous – Omega. In 1894, their Omega calibre was produced.

It had useful features such as time setting with the crown and was known for its “relatively modest price”, according to the book, Omega: A Journey Through Time by Marco Richon.

“The movement was so good that the name [of the company] was changed to Omega,” says David Ponzo, Vice President, Omega Southeast Asia.

Two years prior to the launch of the Omega calibre, the Louis Brandt company had scored another coup – their 1892 launch of the world’s first wristwatch minute repeater.

The minute repeater movement was made by Audemars Piguet. This watch is now part of Omega’s museum collection.

A minute repeater chimes the time on demand. Upon activation, it sounds low-pitched chimes (for the hours) followed by double chimes (for the quarters) and finally high pitched chimes (for the minutes).

How was the chiming of minute repeaters of the past? Well, here is our TimeWerke treat: we actually recorded the chiming of Louis Brandt’s minute repeater of 1892. [Heartfelt special thanks to David Ponzo and Petros Protopapas for making this possible.] In other words, the world’s first wristwatch minute repeater which still works.

Unfortunately, it was not recorded in a sound room but in an open area so there will be some background “noise” but bear in mind that this is not from the watch movement. Instead, focus on the chiming after the initial click from the activation of the minute repeater.

Do remember to turn up the volume and simply click on the play button below to experience the chimes others (the Brandt brothers included) had heard more than 120 years ago:


The time indicated on the watch is eight past 10 so you will only be able to listen to the hour and minute chimes (and not the quarters).

This wristwatch may have been a world’s first in 1892 or 122 years ago and it is remains a “first” for those listening to these chimes for the very first time.

The 1892 Louis Brandt wristwatch minute repeater still looks and sounds good. It has the pocket watch look and it is secured to the wrist via a thin leather strap. Notice how the minute hand points exactly at the minute track? Special thanks to Fiona Lim. Photo: © TANG Portfolio 2014

The 1892 Louis Brandt wristwatch minute repeater still looks and sounds good. It has the pocket watch look and it is secured to the wrist via a thin leather strap. Notice how the minute hand points exactly at the minute track? Special thanks to Fiona Lim. Photo: © TANG Portfolio 2014

Ok, the vintage minute repeater movement was not made by Omega but there is actually a moral to this story. “Movements always play an important role for the brand,” explains Ponzo. “For example, Omega introduced the Co-Axial movement in 1999.

“Now we have the Master Co-Axial calibres which come with a four year warranty. When you think about quality and technology, it is unbeatable,” Ponzo highlights.

The 2014 examples of Omega timepieces with the Master Co-Axial calibres include the Seamaster Aqua Terra and the Seamaster 300.

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