Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin Automatic 5377: Tourbillon elegance

The 42mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin Automatic 5377. Reference: 5377BR/12/9WU. Introduced in 2013, it features the Breguet Calibre 581DR extra-thin automatic movement (16-lignes) which is 3mm thick. It beats at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and has 80 hours of power reserve. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

The 42mm Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Thin Automatic 5377. Reference: 5377BR/12/9WU. Introduced in 2013, it features the Breguet Calibre 581DR extra-thin automatic movement (16-lignes) which is 3mm thick. It beats at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and has 80 hours of power reserve. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

The slim factor of the Breguet reference 5377 Classique Tourbillon is evident at first glance. The tourbillon is not to be missed for a blue sapphire has been set at the centre of the tourbillon bridge. This is, after all, made for those who desire a thin watch with the tourbillon, a specialty of Breguet.

The Breguet reference 5377 made its debut in 2013 at the annual BaselWorld watch fair housed in an 18K rose gold version (Reference 5377BR/12/9WU) with a 42mm diameter case that was 7mm thick. In 2014, the brand launched the platinum version (Reference 5377PT/12/9WU).

What is noteworthy is that the new Breguet Calibre 581DR with the movement thickness of 3mm has a tourbillon carriage and balance in titanium while the balance spring is made of silicon. The escapement is in silicon and anti-magnetic steel.

This means that the Calibre 581DR in the reference 5377 is one of the thinnest automatic tourbillon wristwatches around.

The Breguet Calibre 581DR features a tourbillon carriage and balance in titanium with the balance spring made of silicon. The escapement is made of silicon and anti-magnetic steel. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

The Breguet Calibre 581DR features a tourbillon carriage and balance in titanium with the balance spring made of silicon. The escapement is made of silicon and anti-magnetic steel. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

Moreover, the frequency of the Calibre 581Dr is 4 Hertz or 28,800 vibrations per hour, which is at a rather high frequency for a tourbillon and yet, as the brand notes, does not sacrifice power reserve which stands at 80 hours thanks to the patented “high-energy” barrels.

One reason for the slim factor – the bi-directional platinum oscillating weight at the edge of the movement which is protected by two patents.

At the rear is the bi-directional winding peripheral oscillating weight in platinum that is protected by two patents. The peripheral rotor is one reason why such a slim automatic tourbillon movement can be achieved. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

At the rear is the bi-directional winding peripheral oscillating weight in platinum that is protected by two patents. The peripheral rotor is one reason why such a slim automatic tourbillon movement can be achieved. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy

The elegance of this wristwatch is brought up not just by its slimness but the finish of the dial as four different engine-turned patterns have been engraved.

The hours and minute hands are complemented by the clous de Paris hobnail pattern edged by a barleycorn motif while the power reserve display has engine-turned straight chevrons, each element having a cross-hatched border.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées: “Yang” and “Young”

Chinese “paper cut-type” decoration on the Chinese New Year greeting card by Vacheron Constantin. What colours do you see? How many Maltese crosses can you spot? More importantly, as 2015 is the Year of the Goat, can you make out the two goats? Image of Vacheron Constantin’s Chinese New Year card provided by TANG Portfolio

Chinese “paper cut-type” decoration on the Chinese New Year greeting card from Vacheron Constantin. What colours do you see? How many Maltese crosses can you spot? More importantly, as 2015 is the Year of the Goat, can you make out the two goats? Image of Vacheron Constantin’s Chinese New Year card provided by TANG Portfolio

The Chinese Lunar New Year or Spring Festival begins on the second New Moon after the winter solstice and this is usually between mid-January and mid-February.

In 2015, the Chinese Lunar New Year was on 19 February and the 15-day festival ends on 5 March 2015. This is the Year of the Goat and in welcoming the Lunar New Year, it is traditional to wish friends and loved ones good fortune, prosperity and good luck.

This explains the artistic Chinese “paper cut” greeting card from Vacheron Constantin. Now, what colours do you see? It will not be either blue and black or gold and white (a hot discussion topic at the moment because of a dress), but gold on red. There is no biology or science behind this but tradition and artistry including the belief that red and gold are auspicious colours for the Chinese.

Question is, do you see the two goats on this paper cut? You should be able to figure out the legs of the goat, their heads and horns.

Interestingly, some have used sheep this year as the representative zodiac symbol for their decorations including greeting cards because this is a “cuter animal” and the fact that the Chinese word 羊 (pronounced yáng) can be taken to refer to both goats and sheep.

Technically, it is the Year of the Goat; and as highlighted to us by 10-year-old Kendra, the more precise Chinese term for goat is shānyáng while that for sheep is miányáng.

We personally prefer tradition to be kept so we appreciate the fact that Vacheron Constantin had their greeting cards decorated with the two goats or shānyáng.

The year 2015 is also an important one for Vacheron Constantin because it will be 260 years old (1755 to 2015), or should we say, 260 years young (pun must definitely intended).

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées. This beautifully-engraved 39mm watch in platinum houses the Calibre 4400/1 manual-winding movement featuring 65 hours of power reserve. You should be able to clearly make out the floral motifs that pay tribute to the acanthus leaf. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées. This beautifully-engraved 39mm watch in platinum houses the Calibre 4400/1 manual-winding movement featuring 65 hours of power reserve. You should be able to clearly make out the floral motifs that pay tribute to the acanthus leaf. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Among the timepieces launched by Vacheron Constantin at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva that symbolises the brand’s 260 years of skill in combining watchmaking techniques and artistic crafts is the Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées.

The beauty of Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées lies in its movement that is entirely hand-engraved. As the timepiece features an openworked dial, you will be able to see the artistic scrolling floral motifs and arabesques that pay tribute to the acanthus leaf from the dial side.

Such engravings, as highlighted by the brand, are reminiscent of those that decorated the earliest Vacheron Constantin pocket watches from 1755 onwards

Acanthus plants originate from the Mediterranean region and its jagged leaf is a symbol of eternity, victory and glory.

Acanthus leaves are engraved on Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées. In fact, each Calibre 4400/1 movement that is used in the Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées requires more than 10 days of engraving work.

You can even view the delicate hand-engraved artwork on the rear of the movement thanks to the open display case back.

Rear view of Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées with the hand-engraved floral motifs of the acanthus leaves. It takes more than 10 days to engrave each Calibre 4400/1 movement. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

Rear view of Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’art Mécaniques Gravées with the hand-engraved floral motifs of the acanthus leaves. It takes more than 10 days to engrave each Calibre 4400/1 movement. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

The acanthus leaf, as a stylised ornamental motif used in architecture and the decorative arts, was first used by the Greeks during the fifth century BC on their temple roofs, wall friezes and on the capital of Corinthian columns.

The Romans then used the motif in their Composite order where the capital of the column is a “three-dimensional combination of spirals that resemble rams’ horns and acanthus leaves”, according to the Encyclopædia Britannica.

Rams’ horns? That link brings us back to sheep; male sheep are known as rams while females are ewes. Male goats on the other hand, are termed bucks or billies, the females are does or nannies and young goats are kids.

If we were to use the Chinese word 羊 liberally, then we would have gone one full circle and returned back to the topic of the goat.

Speaking of the goat, in particular the Year of the Goat, we wish the good folks at Vacheron Constantin and all our readers a prosperous and fantastic Lunar New Year!