Hermès Arceau Pocket Chevaux Sauvages: Crystal clear cuts

Hermès Arceau Pocket Chevaux Sauvages (wild horses). Introduced in 2014, the cover features the “wheel-engraved crystal” with two horses. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy 2014

Hermès Arceau Pocket Chevaux Sauvages (wild horses). Introduced in 2014, the cover features the “wheel-engraved crystal” with two horses. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy 2014

The cover of the Hermès Arceau pocket watch with two wild horses (chevaux sauvages) is exquisite and a deeper appreciation level can be attained once one understands the intense work behind its creation.

The inspiration for the two wild horses on the cover comes from two glasses made at the beginning of the 19th century by Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis.

This explains why Hermès is drawing on the expertise of this company for the crystal work on its Arceau pocket watch.

The motif or design to be engraved is first drawn onto the pure crystal plaque with Indian ink. The engraver then uses a lathe that is fitted with a copper wheel to which a diamond point is attached to carve out the design.

Now wonder the cover of this Hermès Arceau pocket watch, powered by the brand’s Manufacture movement – the Calibre H1837, is termed the “wheel-engraved crystal”.

High precision in the relief work is attained by the engraver simply because of his years of experience. According to the brand, 15 days are required to complete the engraving on a single lid.

The good folks at Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis clearly state that “If, as Paul Claudel wrote: “glass is solidified breath”, then crystal is a spark of the human soul.”

We agree. The creation of such fine relief arises from a painstaking process that has no shortcuts; with each precise cut that removes parts of the crystal, the meticulous engraver is patiently breathing life into the desired art form.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master: The black belt

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master (Reference 116655) introduced in 2015, features a black dial and the Calibre 3135 automatic movement in a 40mm case in 18K Everose gold. The black ceramic bezel has matt black Cerachrom inserts. Two versions are available: one in 40mm and the other in 37mm (Reference 268655). Shown above is the 40mm model and it is priced at CHF23,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master (Reference 116655) introduced in 2015, features a black dial and the Calibre 3135 automatic movement in a 40mm case in 18K Everose gold. The black ceramic bezel has matt black Cerachrom inserts. Two versions are available: one in 40mm and the other in 37mm (Reference 268655). Shown above is the 40mm model and it is priced at CHF23,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

At the annual BaselWorld watch fair in March 2015, the Rolex Yacht-Master collection added another family member – one in a new black and Everose gold.

The Rolex Yacht-Master story began in 1992 and it was known as the “sailors’ watch”. The early model, the ref. 16628, water-resistant to 100 metres, was in yellow gold and was powered by the Calibre 3135 automatic movement.

For the 2015 Yacht-Master piece, what is prominent is the bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert in black ceramic paired with its matching black dial, which is said to be a first for this model.

Take note of the numerals and graduations on the bezel are raised and are polished, offering high legibility.

This Yacht-Master model takes on its own identity with the high contrast thanks to the black bezel and dial on the 18K Everose gold case.

There are two variations of the 2015 Yacht-Master: the 40mm diameter version (Reference 116655) housing the Calibre 3135 automatic movement and the 37mm model (Reference 268655) with the Calibre 2236 automatic movement.

The 2015 Yacht-Master has a bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert paired with a matching black dial that is said to be a first for this model. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

The 2015 Yacht-Master has a bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert paired with a matching black dial that is said to be a first for this model. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

Another key highlight is what most would call the “rubber strap” in layman terms. However, this is what Rolex describes as a new Oysterflex bracelet that comprises a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade that is overmoulded with black elastomer.

Though it looks like a regular rubber strap, this bracelet with elastomer over metal, offers resistance that is comparable to that of a metal bracelet.

A better fit is also offered because of a patented longitudinal cushion system patented by Rolex that holds the watch more comfortably to the wrist. The bracelet is complemented with an 18K gold Everose Oysterlock safety clasp.

The 2015 Yacht-Master has a bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert paired with a matching black dial that is said to be a first for this model. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

The 2015 Yacht-Master has a bi-directional rotating bezel featuring the matt black Cerachrom insert paired with a matching black dial that is said to be a first for this model. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 BaselWorld

This bracelet feature is yet another show how high the “black belt” mastery Rolex has in innovative and technical solutions for wristwatches.