Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur: Flower Power

Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. Introduced in 2015, it features the flying tourbillon with automaton mechanism. The magnolia flower is between six o’clock and nine o’clock. The flying tourbillon is under five flower petals of the magnolia flower and it blooms in passing every five minutes. The flower can also bloom on demand via activation of the pusher at nine o’clock. Limited to 30 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Richard Mille RM19-02 Tourbillon Fleur. Introduced in 2015, it features the flying tourbillon with an automaton mechanism. The magnolia flower is between six o’clock and nine o’clock. The flying tourbillon is under five flower petals of the magnolia flower and it blooms in passing every five minutes. The petals are open in the above image.  The flower can also bloom on demand via activation of the pusher at nine o’clock. Limited to 30 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

The flower you see towards the left on the Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur is no ordinary flower. In fact, it is an exceptional one.

That is because it is a magnolia flower. “The magnolia was chosen as its existence marks millions of years on Earth even before the emergence of bees within the environment, flowering in an endless cycle of birth and regeneration.

“The magnolia’s delicate appearance stands in sharp contrast to its strong organic structure and resilience in difficult environments,” explains the brand.

Time should be taken to appreciate the Richard Mille RM 19-02 Tourbillon Fleur for the magnolia flower surrounding the tourbillon “with five delicate, hand-created and coloured petals” will open and close either in passing or on demand via activation of the pusher at 9 o’clock.

The magnolia flower in a closed position will “hide” the flying tourbillon beneath (left). The magnolia flower will bloom every five minutes. As all five petals open, the flying tourbillon with its stone-set “stamen” will rise by one millimetre. Photo: © Richard Mille.

The magnolia flower in a closed position will “hide” the flying tourbillon beneath (left). The magnolia flower will bloom every five minutes (right). As all five petals open, the flying tourbillon with its stone-set “stamen” will rise by one millimetre. Photo: © Richard Mille.

Left by itself, the magnolia will open (bloom) and close “with rhythmic regularity in a delicate kinetic ballet”, as described by the brand.

What we recommend is to carefully observe this mechanical magnolia as it blooms because the brand has chosen to mimick nature “… in the most exquisitely extreme manner possible.

“The magnolia does not just open, the entire flying tourbillon with its stone-set stamen actually moves upwards by one millimetre when fully opened, exactly copying the natural motion of the flower arching upwards of its stamen to increase its chances of pollination”.

Speaking of improving the odds, the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie held in Geneva was manned, or should we say “wo-manned” by at least two very sexy ladies decorated with flowers to attract the “birds and the bees”.

Thankfully, we didn’t hear of any incidents involving “beasts” (pun intended).

One of the female models decorated with flowers seen within the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

One of the female models decorated with flowers seen within the Richard Mille booth at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. And yes, she is wearing a Richard Mille wristwatch. Photo: © TANG Portfolio.

To attract more visitors to the Richard Mille booth, there were two other ladies, also decked in flowers, who were walking around the fairgrounds, distributing flowers to the visitors.

We view such extra attention as positive as the Richard Mille RM 19-02 watch, limited to only 30 pieces, is definitely worth viewing. The flower ladies were wearing Richard Mille watches such as the diamond-set RM 007.

The “secret” behind the mechanical magnolia flower is a complex mechanism comprising five levers surrounding the underside of the petals and another system combined with a long pinion that is used to raise the flying tourbillon and stamen upwards within the flower’s circumference.

All the energy required comes from a second separate winding barrel. According to the brand, adjusting the opening and closing cycles is possible.

As for the flowering cycle on the RM 19-02, the five petals in 18K gold enter into “full bloom” every five minutes to reveal the flying tourbillon which rises as well. In addition, viewing of the “full bloom” can be made on demand, thanks to the pusher at 9 o’clock.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon: The Spin on Strength

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. Introduced in 2015, it is powered by the RD01SQ manual-winding movement and bears the Poinçon de Genève. The Calibre RD01SQ manual-winding movement features the double flying tourbillon with differentials at 4.30 and 7.30, each tourbillon carriage completing one rotation every 60 seconds. The movement comprises 301 components. Besides the movement, the hands, flange and 47mm diameter case in black DLC titanium are also skeletonized. This watch has a red aluminium container and red crown. Limited to 188 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. Introduced in 2015, it is powered by the RD01SQ manual-winding movement and bears the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal Hallmark). The Calibre RD01SQ manual-winding movement features the double flying tourbillon with differentials at 4.30 and 7.30, each tourbillon carriage completing one rotation every 60 seconds. The movement comprises 301 components. Besides the movement, the hands, flange and 47mm diameter case in black DLC titanium are also skeletonized. This watch has a red aluminium container and red crown. Limited to 188 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

At the 25th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie held in Geneva, Roger Dubuis declared 2015 the “Year of the Astral Skeleton”, notably for its Excalibur collection.

This is understandable as it also marks the tenth year anniversary of the first Excalibur skeleton watch. After all, it was only in 2005 that the brand first launched its Excalibur collection.

The Excalibur was actually the name given to a new case design by Carlos Diaz, the founder and former president of Roger Dubuis.

In 2005, besides the super high-complications presented, namely the Calibre RD01 double tourbillon in the Excalibur 01 and the Calibre RD08 minute repeater tourbillon in the Excalibur 08, the brand also presented its Calibre RD02 skeleton movement.

The brand continually refined its skeleton movements and in 2009, Roger Dubuis presented the sculptural version of its double tourbillon: the Excalibur Skeleton Double Tourbillon.

From what we understand, development on this skeleton double tourbillon had begun as early as in 2001 and Roger Dubuis is the only brand on the market that has a double tourbillon skeleton wristwatch.

In just a short period of over a decade, Roger Dubuis has firmly established itself as the pioneer of skeleton calibres.

The highly technical timepieces for its 2015 skeleton models have the word “Spider” included, a code name given. These are the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon and the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon which also comes with a version where the bezel features diamonds set on rubber.

Why the code name “spider”? That is because cobwebs spun by spiders to trap their prey can have exceptionally strong structures.

The webs spun by the Nephila spiders found in the warmer climates of Asia, Australia and the Americas for example, are so strong that natives in Papua New Guinea use them to produce fishing nets for small fish or fishing lines for larger catches, according to E. Sue Andersen in her research article, Captive Breeding and Husbandry of the Golden Orb Weaver Nephila inaurata madagascariensis at Woodland Park Zoo. Andersen is a keeper at “Bug World” insectarium at the Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle, USA.

What is the link between the strength of cobwebs and skeleton movements from Roger Dubuis? First of all, skeletonizing is the horological art of removing as much material as possible from the movement plate, bridges and bars without compromising on its timekeeping function.

The skeletonized components must therefore remain functionally strong, just like a spider’s web, to support the movement and its working parts.

“We need to put in other elements without breaking the skeletonized parts,” explains Gregory Bruttin, director of movement development, Roger Dubuis. “For us, there is 30% more work to be done than a basic skeleton movement. We also have to meet the Geneva Seal standards.”

Gregory Bruttin, Director, Movement Development, Roger Dubuis. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Gregory Bruttin, Director, Movement Development, Roger Dubuis. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

For the Excalibur Spider skeleton models, Roger Dubuis has upped the ante by even skeletonizing the watchcase, hands and the flange of these watches.

“The year 2015 is the Year of the skeleton for Roger Dubuis. The Excalibur Spider has a new case as we have extended the skeletonizing work form the movement to the watchcase,” says Bruttin.

The spotlight for 2015 is on the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon. Its black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) case is in titanium and skeletonized.

On the dial side, one can clearly sight the red aluminium skeleton flange and titanium screws coated with SuperLuminova.

“We play with colours to create the 3D effect. The case is in titanium and the red is in aluminium. By skeletonizing the case, around 30% of the weight is lost as compared to classical-shaped cases. There is also the skeletonized flange,” Bruttin highlights.