Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon: The Rubber Spin

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon. Introduced in 2015 and powered by the Calibre RD5505SQ manual-winding skeleton movement that is Geneva Seal-hallmarked. The 42mm diameter case is in black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) titanium. The case and flange are also skeletonized. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon. Introduced in 2015 and powered by the Calibre RD5505SQ manual-winding skeleton movement that is Geneva Seal-hallmarked. The 42mm diameter case is in black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) titanium. The case and flange are also skeletonized. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

In addition to the movement, the hands, flange and 42mm black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) titanium case of the 42mm Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon are also skeletonized.

The Excalibur Spider Flying Tourbillon has a black titanium container and crown as well.

There are two versions of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flying Tourbillon: one with its bezel marked from 0 to 60, and a jewellery model where its bezel is set with diamonds.

Do pay a little more attention on the diamond-set version of the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon which has 60 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon with its bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds of approximately 2.24 carats on rubber. Limited to 88 pieces.This Roger Dubuis timepiece with diamonds set on a bezel with rubber made its world premiere at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon with its bezel set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds of approximately 2.24 carats on rubber. Limited to 88 pieces.This Roger Dubuis timepiece with diamonds set on a bezel with rubber made its world premiere at the 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

This is no ordinary setting because the diamonds of approximately 2.24 carats are set on a rubber moulding over the metal bezel.

Yes, that is right, the diamonds are set on rubber. Two years of research were required and it was undertaken by Pascal Vincent Vaucher, a gem-setting specialist based in Geneva. The ability to set precious stones on rubber resulted in the registration of the “Soft Stones in the Sky” patent.

A closer look at the diamonds set on moulded rubber on the metal bezel. It took two years of research to successfully achieve this setting on rubber, undertaken by Pascal Vincent Vaucher, a gem-setting specialist based in Geneva. The ability to set precious stones on rubber resulted in the registration of the “Soft Stones in the Sky” patent. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

A closer look at the diamonds set on moulded rubber on the metal bezel. It took two years of research to successfully achieve this setting on rubber, undertaken by Pascal Vincent Vaucher, a gem-setting specialist based in Geneva. The ability to set precious stones on rubber resulted in the registration of the “Soft Stones in the Sky” patent. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

“Just for the setting, it took two years. It was a complex process to find the best rubber and the optimal thickness. We chose rubber because of its deep, dark colour. We have an interest in contrast and using rubber allowed us to have a dark, spectacular effect. This watch is a haute couture timepiece,” declares Gregory Bruttin, director of movement development at Roger Dubuis.

There is a reason why this Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon is part of its Astral Skeleton collection. Notice the star symbol on the case back? This symbol is also found on the dial side. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

There is a reason why this Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon is part of its Astral Skeleton collection. Notice the star symbol on the case back? This symbol is also found on the dial side. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Do note that one distinct feature of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur case is its triple lugs. Fans of the brand and this collection will be pleased to note that different colours of rubber straps such as red, white and blue are available for the Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon.

Drive de Cartier: Hand signals

Drive de Cartier watch. Introduced in 2016, it houses Cartier’s Manufacture Calibre 1904-PS MC automatic movement and features the sweep seconds counter at six o’clock and the date display. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Drive de Cartier watch. Introduced in 2016, it houses Cartier’s Manufacture Calibre 1904-PS MC automatic movement and features the sweep seconds counter at six o’clock and the date display. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.

Is the wristwatch one has on the wrist a form of communication?

That may well be the case given for example, that an expensive wristwatch is generally viewed as a status symbol.

There are those who also wear certain wristwatches as an expression of themselves and of course, those who sport them more for their time-telling functionality.

As Hollywood actress Alexandra Paul had once said: “The car we drive says a lot about us.” Alexandra Paul had starred in the TV series Baywatch (1989) as Lt Stephanie Holden and movies such as Dragnet (1987) and Spy Hard (1996).

Actually, the same can be said for shoes and wristwatches. Indeed, what one wears can actually say a lot about oneself.

What “hand signals” can be read if you spot someone wearing the Drive de Cartier wristwatch which made its debut at the 2016 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie held in Geneva?

Firstly, this stylish cushion-shaped timepiece is masculine in looks. This watch is worn “… as a reflection of the man, rather than for status; the same applies to his passion which he steers, as he would his car, appreciating the beauty of the skills involved,” according to the brand.

We would interpret that as a gentleman who appreciates what he has and the experience it brings.

Enzo Ferrari (1898 to 1998), founder of Ferrari – the famous automobile marque with the prancing horse, had once commented: “The fact is, I don’t drive from A to B. I enjoy the car’s reactions, becoming part of it.”

For owners of Drive de Cartier watches, they probably enjoy the stylish design and the various elements it offers that have been inspired by the automobile. Of course, one must not forget that the design signature is still very much in line with the Cartier DNA.

The guilloché patterns for instance, resemble the design of a radiator grill while its domed crystal, continuous sweep seconds counter at six o’clock and winding crown are shaped like the bolt seen in automobiles. Hence the name of the collection – “Drive de Cartier”.

In a nutshell, the Drive de Cartier is what the brand describes as “… the watch of a man of passion”, one with an aptitude for style and freedom while not forgetting the appreciation of Cartier timepieces with distinctive shapes.

We can probably add that these Drive de Cartier watches are not only of distinctive shapes but of distinction.