TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon explained.

by
TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon (Reference: CAR5A8Y.FC6377). Introduced in 2016, it houses the Manufacture Calibre Heuer-02T automatic movement that is COSC-certified with the chronograph function and flying tourbillon in a 45mm diameter case made of grade 5 titanium. Priced at CHF14,900 / SGD21,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon (Reference: CAR5A8Y.FC6377). Introduced in 2016, it houses the
Manufacture Calibre Heuer-02T automatic movement that is COSC-certified with the chronograph function and flying tourbillon in a 45mm diameter case made of grade 5 titanium. Priced at CHF14,900 / SGD21,800. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with TourbillonTAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon

The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T features not only the chronograph function but the flying tourbillon and its name comes from its movement – the Calibre Heuer-02T.

The Calibre Heuer-02T is an in-house Manufacture movement and it is COSC-certified (chronometer-certified).

This means that each and every Carrera Heuer-02T watch would have undergone 21 days of testing with the movements certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), an independent testing organisation that serves as a guarantee that the movements meet high accuracy standards when worn on the wrist.

According to the brand, the Calibre Heuer-02T was “… developed directly from the DNA of the CH 80 chronograph, used as a basis to interpret two of traditional watchmaking’s most famous complications: the chronograph (one of TAG Heuer’s strengths) and the aesthetically-pleasing tourbillon.”

The Calibre CH 80, which was presented in 2013, is TAG Heuer’s in-house integrated chronograph Manufacture movement beating at 4 Hertz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a vertical clutch that is produced at its workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Chevenez.

The main technical challenge, the brand adds, was to house a single barrel, the chronograph, the self-winding mechanism and the flying tourbillon within the movement’s diameter of 32mm, while ensuring that the counters on the dial were well-spaced for a modern, balanced look.

The flying tourbillon is lightweight because its central sections are made from titanium and it has a carbon top. The lightweight tourbillons are “handcrafted by four watchmakers, inspired by the Monaco V4’s tourbillon”, in an industrial framework developed tp “optimise assembly in TAG Heuer’s Chevenez workshops,” adds the brand.

The main components are produced in the workshops of TAG Heuer’s Manufacture and the balance spring is manufactured by Atokalpa. All fitting, assembly and adjustment work are performed by hand.

Based in Alle in the Juta Mountains, Atokalpa is owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation which has also invested in high-end movement maker Vaucher Manufacture and watch brand Parmigiani Fleurier. Atokalpa began industrial production of balance springs in 2011. [Reference: TimeWerke magazine Volume X, pages 255 to 261.]

The Carrera Heuer-02T features an automatic movement with the chronograph function and the flying tourbillon. This watch was one of the big surprises at BaselWorld 2016 as it was priced at CHF14,900. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.

The Carrera Heuer-02T features an automatic movement with the chronograph function and the flying tourbillon. This watch was one of the big surprises at BaselWorld 2016 as it was priced at CHF14,900. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2016 BaselWorld.

The case, comprising 12 modular components, is made from grade 5 titanium and it is lightweight and shock-resistant. With modular components, future versions can come in a combination of materials, colours, treatments and finishes.

The Carrera Heuer-02T is not a limited edition piece and what is probably most attention-grabbing is its retail price of CHF14,900 or SGD21,800 for a chronograph and tourbillon wristwatch.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T COSC-certified automatic chronograph with Tourbillon
Reference: CAR5A8Y.FC6377
Introduced in 2016
Technical Specifications:
• Manufacture Calibre Heuer-02T automatic movement
• COSC-certified
• More than 65 hours power reserve
• Flying tourbillon
• Chronograph function
• Black column wheel
• Black skeleton bridges
• Carbon and titanium tourbillon cage
• Black skeleton dial with 2 counters, polished and satin-finished baton indexes, polished and satin-finished hands with SuperLuminova
• Chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph hour counter at 9 o’clock
• Black titanium bezel with the tachymeter scale
• Steel crown overmoulded with rubber
• 45mm diameter case in grade 5 titanium with 12 modular components (lugs, middle case, bezel, case back, crown and its moulding, push-buttons, gasket between the middle and the bezel and sapphire crystals)
• Water-resistant to 100m
• Matte black alligator strap sewn onto black rubber with matching stitching, deployant buckle with safety push-buttons

Another related article on timewerke.com is:
i. TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T chronograph with tourbillon: Why it created a “storm”.

Franck Muller Boutique: A second home?

by
Inside the Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria. The store features the brand’s home-style concept with floor space carefully “divided” into areas like a “living room” , a “drawing room”, a “library” and even a “dining room” (to the left with the long dining table). Photo: © TANG Portfolio / TimeWerke. Elfa / Timmy. 2016.

Inside the Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria. The store features the brand’s home-style concept with floor space carefully “divided” into areas like a “living room” , a “drawing room”, a “library” and even a “dining room” (to the left with the long dining table). Photo: © TANG Portfolio / TimeWerke. Elfa / Timmy. 2016.

Franck Muller’s home-style store concept, notably that of its 2016 addition located at Isetan, Wisma Atria, features sub-divided sections on the shop floor which are designed to look like familiar areas in a typical home like the living room, drawing room, dining room and a library.

Such a “home store” concept isn’t new as it was introduced in 2007. The first such Franck Muller Singapore boutique in this style was then located at Delfi Orchard. [Reference: TimeWerke Anniversary Issue, pages 314 to 329].

What truly struck us, apart from the fine décor and the “home-styled” design, is that the third Franck Muller boutique, located at Isetan Wisma Atria, occupies a rather large retail floor area, covering 2,399 square feet.

There are two entrances to the Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria. One is located within the shopping mall (above) and the other is at street level which can be accessed from outside the building. Photo: © Franck Muller.

There are two entrances to the Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria. One is located within the shopping mall (above) and the other is at street level which can be accessed from outside the building. Photo: © Franck Muller.

This is rather surprising as it means that this Franck Muller boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria is actually around 30% larger than the existing one at ION Orchard.

Given the current challenges facing the luxury industry, including the watch industry, why is the brand expanding its retail boutique operations?

What’s more, is there really a need for a third store given that the latest one at Isetan, Wisma Atria is located right beside the ION Orchard shopping mall which also has a Franck Muller boutique?

The latest statistics, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, indicate that Swiss watch exports to Singapore have dropped to CHF321.5 million, representing a decline of 14.6% between January 2016 to April 2016 as compared to the same period in 2015.

Well, there is an underlying reason. From what we understand, Franck Muller will cease operating the 1,800-plus square feet boutique at ION Orchard.

The Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria is the brand’s third store in Singapore and it is larger than the existing one at ION Orchard which will be vacated by the brand. This means that there will then be two Franck Muller Boutiques in Singapore. ,The main advantage of the store at Isetan, Wisma Atria is its street level frontage facing Orchard Road. Photo: © Franck Muller.

The Franck Muller Boutique at Isetan, Wisma Atria is the brand’s third store in Singapore and it is larger than the existing one at ION Orchard which will be vacated by the brand. This means that there will then be two Franck Muller Boutiques in Singapore. ,The main advantage of the store at Isetan, Wisma Atria is its street level frontage facing Orchard Road. The boutique is accessible from outside the building. Photo: © Franck Muller.

In other words, Singapore will only have two Franck Muller boutiques.

While the Franck Muller Boutique at Wisma Atria is larger than the existing one at ION Orchard, one must bear in mind that their latest store has a much better advantage – and that is its street level frontage facing Orchard Road. This is a major plus point for luxury brand retailers in Singapore.

Other related articles on timewerke.com that may be of interest:
i. Franck Muller: A new home
ii. Franck Muller Gothique: Got it?
ii. Franck Muller: Psy keeping watch “Gangnam Style”
iii. Franck Muller: Shenyang Forum