Patek Philippe stainless steel Reference 1518: Steel Rare

Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in stainless steel. Made during the 1940s and 1950s, this Reference 1518 is valued at more than CHF3 million and is offered for sale in November 2016 at The Geneva Watch Auction: Four by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. Photo: © Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.

Patek Philippe Reference 1518 in stainless steel. Made during the 1940s and 1950s, this Reference 1518 in steel is valued at more than CHF3 million and is offered for sale in November 2016 at The Geneva Watch Auction: Four by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo. Photo: © Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo.

Launched in 1941, Patek Philippe’s Reference 1518 became the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced in series.

Between 1941 and 1954, only 281 pieces of this Reference 1518 were made, the majority of which were in yellow gold.

What came after the Reference 1518 is the Reference 2499 and it is housed in a wider case with fluted lugs.

The dials of the Reference 1518 and Reference 2499 are similar because both are powered by the Calibre 13-ligne Q, highlights J. Michael Mehltretter in his book, Patek Philippe: Cult Object and Investment.

From what we understand, this is the Calibre 13-130, the ebauche by Valjoux and Victorin Piguet & Co. (Vallée de Joux).

However, the Reference 1518 had a 35mm diameter while the Reference 2499 is in a 37.7mm case. The Reference 2499 has a turned case middle and soldered-on band lugs.

The pink gold version of the Reference 1518 is obviously less common than the yellow gold model. According to auctioneer Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo, approximately 44 pieces are known to be in pink gold. Even rarer are the stainless steel models of the Reference 1518.

Why are vintage Patek Philippe watches, notably those with the perpetual calendar complication, housed in stainless steel watchcases particularly rare?

“Stainless steel is by far the rarest case material that Patek Philippe chose to use during the mid-twentieth century for their complicated watches, considering the extremely high value of their movements.

“For many, steel complicated Patek Philippe watches are the ultimate in distinction to collect,” is what auction house Phillips puts it.

“After 40 years of international watch auctions and hundreds of books written on the subject, only four are known to exist. Of the four, three have at some point appeared at auction, with the last one [the last of the three] selling over a decade ago,” according to Phillips.

“The fourth example has never appeared at a public auction, and this is the watch to be offered. This watch, since its rediscovery in the 1990s, has always been exclusively held in private collections.”

This rightly explains why the fourth Reference 1518 will be appearing at the Phillips auction in Geneva in November 2016. It is also clear why Phillips declares this Reference 1518 as the ne plus ultra watch of the 20th century.

In fact, all three versions of the Patek Philippe Reference 1518 will be offered by Phillips.

More significantly, it comes as no big surprise why the Reference 1518 in stainless steel is valued in excess of CHF3 million, way above its “siblings” in pink gold (estimated value between CHF600,000 and CHF1.2 million) and yellow gold (estimated value between CHF250,000 and CHF500,000).

HYT H4 Alinghi: And there was light

The lighting mechanism in HYT’s H4 is mechanical. To light up the dial of the H4, rotate the push-piece located at between 4 and 5 o’clock and thereafter, apply pressure on it. Two LEDs (light-emitting diodes) will the light up the dial. Photos: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

The lighting mechanism in HYT’s H4 is mechanical. To light up the dial of the H4, rotate the push-piece located between 4 and 5 o’clock and thereafter, apply pressure on it. Two LEDs (light-emitting diodes) will the light up the dial. Photos: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

The HYT H4 Alinghi is very much like the H4 Metropolis as both are equipped with two in-built LEDs (light-emitting diodes) that illuminate the dial after the push-piece between 4 and 5 o’clock is rotated and thereafter activated.

The main difference is that the HYT H4 Alinghi was made to honour the Alinghi team and marks the partnership with this Swiss-based sailing team led by Ernesto Barterelli competing in the America’s Cup.

The two LEDs (light-emitting diodes) are located under the “rider” at 6 o’clock where the Arabic numeral “6” is. By looking at the watch from the top down, one can sight the 2 LEDs and how they light up the dial for around five seconds. Photos: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

The two LEDs (light-emitting diodes) are located under the “rider” at 6 o’clock where the Arabic numeral “6” is. By looking at the watch from the top down, one can sight the 2 LEDs and how they light up the dial for around five seconds. Photos: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

Moreover, the case of the H4 is made of carbon and its strap is produced using sail canvas. The Alinghi’s team’s logo is on the continuous sweep seconds sub-dial.

With such an innovation first unveiled with its H4 Metropolis, HYT has laid its claim as the watch industry’s first mechanical wristwatch to feature a light source that can mechanically illuminate the dial.

To attain such a level of “enlightenment” so to speak, there were three main challenges: firstly, the miniaturization of the lighting system for a wristwatch, the curved shape and the fact that there were no prior developments which could be referenced.

“With the light complication, a new challenge was set: we had to start using our own existing calibre as a complete, functional basis. We had to add a piece [the lighting mechanism] to a puzzle [the existing calibre] which was already finished.

“Before the Metropolis, lighting up a dial was only possible with a battery. And, what is more, a liquid must never be used in conjunction with an electrical current… we’ve done all of those things.

“In reality, the only limits are those we set ourselves,” says Vincent Perriard, who is now a Member of the Board, HYT. Perriard was formerly the CEO of HYT.

HYT H4 Alinghi. A red liquid is used to indicate the hours and white light illuminates the dial on demand as compared to blue light on the H4 Metropolis. The HYT H4 Alinghi is limited to 25 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

HYT H4 Alinghi. A red liquid is used to indicate the hours and white light illuminates the dial on demand as compared to blue light on the H4 Metropolis. The case of the HYT H4 is in carbon and its strap is made of sail canvas. The HYT H4 Alinghi is limited to 25 pieces. Photo: © TANG Portfolio. Elfa / Timmy. 2015.

The case thickness remains at 17.9mm for both the H1 and H4 Metropolis. However, the case diameter of the H4 Metropolis and H4 Alinghi is slightly wider at 51mm as compared to 48.8mm for the H1.

For the HYT H4 Alinghi, a red liquid and white light rather than the blue light used in the H4 Metropolis, are used.

HYT H4 Alinghi
Made in 2015
Technical Specifications:

• Exclusive mechanical HYT Calibre, skeleton manual-winding movement
• 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz)
• 35 jewels
• 65 hour power reserve
• Hand-bevelled and micro-blasted bridges, rhodium-plated bellows
• Retrograde fluidic hours, minutes and seconds
• Unstructured, fluid hour display
• Sapphire minute, seconds and power reserve dial, black minute indexes and luminescent numerals, black hour dial with white numerals, luminescent black minute hand
• Regulator at 12 o’clock
• Small seconds wheel at 9.30
• Power reserve display at 2.30
• White light mechanical module with rewinding and push-button system activated via the crown at 4.30
• Rubber-clad screw-down black DLC titanium crown at 2.30 and 4.30
• Black DLC titanium and red numeral lacquered dome at 6 o’clock
• Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the dial side
• 51mm diameter case in 3DTP carbon, 17.9mm thick
• Water-resistant to 50m
• Screw-down sapphire back
• Black rubber base strap with integrated silver canvas and red stitching
• Black DLC titanium folding buckle
Limited to 25 pieces
Note:
The dynamo for the white light mechanical module works when the crown at 4.30 is compressed. As soon as the button loosens, the light stops working until the full decompression of the additional barrel spring