Author Archives: Timmy Tan

Omega Bullhead: Bull run

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Omega Bullhead reference 225.12.43.50.04.001 is the re-edition of the 1969 version. Check out the inner rotating bezel, controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock, with the 24-hour scale which can be used as a second time zone display. Priced at around US$10,000 / 7,200 euros / S$12,400. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

Omega Bullhead reference 225.12.43.50.04.001 is the re-edition of the 1969 version. Check out the inner rotating bezel, controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock, with the 24-hour scale which can be used as a second time zone display. Priced at around US$10,000 / 7,200 euros / S$12,400.
Photo: © TANG Portfolio

If you are seriously set on owning Omega’s new “Bullhead” launched this year at the annual BaselWorld watch fair, then maybe a “bull run” to your nearest authorised dealer or brand boutique to check this piece out should be the order of the day.

Why? It is official: the 2013 Omega Bullhead equipped with the Co-Axial Chronograph Calibre 3113 is a limited edition piece, with production of 669 pieces. It comes with a three-year warranty.

This 2013 Omega Bullhead in a 43mm by 43mm stainless steel case is a re-edition of the original 1969 Bullhead. Even at this size and with its uniquely-shaped case, the Bullhead fits snugly on small wrists.

Now was the first Omega Bullhead launched in 1969 or 1970? According to Petros Protopapas, museum manager, Omega SA, the prototype of the Omega Bullhead was created in 1968 and the working piece was introduced in 1969. It was in 1970 that the Omega Bullhead was launched into the markets.

One key feature of the Bullhead with the white dial shown above (Reference: 225.12.43.50.50.04.001) is the inner rotating bezel that is controlled by the crown at 6 o’clock.

The inner rotating bezel has a 24-hour scale with a day and night display – blue for the day and black for the night. This is useful as it can serve as a second time zone display.

From what we understand, this 24-hour scale on the inner rotating bezel can only be found on this Bullhead with a white dial.

There are other versions; the model with the silvery dial has a 60-minute scale on the inner rotating bezel (Reference: 225.12.43.50.02.001) and so has the version with the black dial. Do check the black dial model in our article: Omega Bullhead – No Bull based on what we saw in Basel in April 2013.

Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal: Chronofiable-certified

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The Calibre RMUL1 found in the Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal, launched in 2011, is the brand’s first chronofiable-certified manual-winding movement. Photo: © Richard Mille

The Calibre RMUL1 found in the Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal, launched in 2011, is the brand’s first chronofiable-certified manual-winding movement. Photo: © Richard Mille

Richard Mille’s RM 035 Rafael Nadal is Chronofiable-certified. Now what exactly does it mean to be Chronofiable?

A Chronofiable certification means that the watch movement and its components have “a guarantee of reliability” states Laboratoire Dubois SA, which owns the Chronofiable registered trademark.

Both quartz and mechanical movements can be certified Chronofiable. The aim of the chronofiable test is to check on the reliability of these watch movements and components, and the results are used to identify problems or defects that may surface over time due to normal wear-and-tear.

Every batch tested, which is between five and 40 movements, will undergo 21 days or three weeks of the step cycle chronofiable aging process.

Each movement, fitted with a dial and hands, is subjected to amplitude checks, linear and angular accelerations, shocks, temperature variations, humidity changes and magnetic field testing.

Temperature tests range from zero to 50 degrees Celsius. The movement’s resistance to magnetic fields is tested according to ISO 764 or NIHS 90-10 standards. Even the power reserve and winding speed for automatic movements are tested.

The movement is abused literally, being exposed to 20,000 shocks which Laboratoire Dubois describes as “collisions between 250 and 5,500 m/s2”which is equivalent to between 25 and 550 g-forces. Linear accelerations up to 25,000 g-forces can also be applied, depending on the programme.

Then there are thermal shocks (thermal stresses) at 15, 30 and 55 degrees Celsius.

The 21 days may seem like a long time to test one movement but bear in mind the timepiece is likely to be something you’d be wearing for years. In fact, the acceleration factor for the chronofiable aging test is eight.

This means the 21 days of testing simulations translate into around six months of wear. Movements that have passed the test would have a good survival rate with end consumers.

The lightweight Calibre RMUL1, weighing in at 4.3 grams, of the Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal, is therefore capable of being used in extreme conditions.

Don’t forget too, that the Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal incorporates technical features for improved chronometry and torque stability such as the free sprung balance with variable inertia and a double barrel system respectively.

Named after the famous tennis professional, the watch was built for his use, even when playing on the courts.

The Richard Mille look is unmistakable and is ideally worn with an attitude. One fine example of a Richard Mille RM 035 Rafael Nadal can be observed on Earn Chen, founder and creative director of Salon by Surrender, as seen in the article: Parmigiani: New boutique opening with open arms, and rightly pointed out to us by a keen Richard Mille fan.

Richard Mille wristwatches look very good on ladies as evidenced by the RM 007 seen on this female model during the official opening of Richard Mille’s boutique located in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore in September 2010. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

Richard Mille wristwatches look very good on ladies as evidenced by the RM 007 seen on this female model during the official opening of Richard Mille’s boutique located in The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore in September 2010. Photo: © TANG Portfolio

Did you know? Richard Mille donated one RM 035 Rafael Nadal to help raise funds for the Japanese Red Cross Society, notably for the March 2011 earthquake in Japan. The RM 035 Rafael Nadal was auctioned for ¥8,191,000 or 78,000 euros.