Rolex Panerai 3646: Rare because few dared

This Rolex Panerai 3646, circa 1940, is being offered for sale at Bonham’s 4 December 2013 auction in London. According to Bonhams, it was made for the German Navy and its estimated value is between £18,000 and £22,000. Photo: © Bonhams

This Rolex Panerai 3646, circa 1940, is being offered for sale at Bonham’s 4 December 2013 auction in London. According to Bonhams, it was made for the German Navy and its estimated value is between £18,000 and £22,000. Photo: © Bonhams

There is a nice history to Panerai wristwatches and it dates back to the 1930s when the company began supplying diver’s wristwatches to the Italian Royal Navy.

Among the early watches was the Rolex Panerai 3646 which is powered by the manual-winding Calibre 618 based on the Cortébert movement and cases supplied by Rolex.

The 47mm Rolex Panerai 3646 seen above was made for the German Navy and is being offered for sale by Bonhams during their 4 December 2013 auction which is being held in London.

The digits “3646” come from the case number given by Rolex, according to Mario Paci in the book Gli Orologi Panerai dal 1936 al 1997 (Panerai watches from 1936 to 1997).

Estimated at between £18,000 and £22,000, this particular diver’s watch offered by Bonhams was issued to a Kampfschwimmer or “combat diver” of the German Navy, states the auctioneer. Such watches were a vital piece of the diver’s equipment, says Paul Maudsley, head of Bonhams Watch Department.

These were produced from around 1938 onwards and only a few exist today. Of course, another reason is that not many were made for there were few such heroes (commandos) of the sea.

In his book Militäruhren (Military Timepieces), Konrad Knirim notes that Kampfschwimmers were volunteers.

Indeed, they were a rare breed of brave gentlemen who ventured where few dared.

Note: Our update on the 4 December 2013 Bonhams sale whereby we featured another auction piece, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3417, can be found in the 24 December 2013 article: Patek Philippe Ref. 3417 Amagnetic: in demand, “present tense”. The Rolex Panerai featured here was sold for £56,250, way above the estimated valuations.

Another Panerai article from timewerke.com that may be of interest:
i. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Pam 532 Paneristi Forever: when Panerai is forever

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon: Around 10

On the wrist: the 45.5mm Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon in 18K red gold. Powered by the Val Fleurier Manufacture Calibre P951 manual-winding movement. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

On the wrist: the 45.5mm Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon in 18K red gold. Powered by the Val Fleurier Manufacture Calibre P951 manual-winding movement. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

At the recent Watches&Wonders exhibition held in Hong Kong in September 2013, the key highlight presented by Baume & Mercier was its Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon wristwatch in 18K red gold.

The main question for those not too familiar with the brand is probably “why?” The answer is basically related back to Baume & Mercier’s watchmaking history.

In 1892, Baume & Co’s Tourbillon Chronometer keyless pocket watch which was the company’s entry submission for the rating contest at the Kew Teddington Observatory’s chronometer competition in England scored 91.9 points out of the maximum of 100 possible.

The win meant that Baume’s Tourbillon Chronometer pocket watch was then the most accurate in the world. What was even more amazing was that this record was to remain unbeaten for a decade.

The Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon wristwatch is therefore an important statement piece, and as highlighted by the brand, pays tribute to its glorious past. Moreover, it serves as a reminder that Baume & Mercier is still actively involved in the watchmaking industry with its offering of “accurate and complicated watches.”

The Calibre P951 manual-winding movement powering the Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is produced by the Val Fleurier Manufacture which is ultimately owned by Baume & Mercier’s parent company, Compagnie Financière Richemont SA.

The Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is limited to 30 pieces. Priced at around US$60,000 / 45,000 euros / SGD75,000. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

The Baume & Mercier Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon is limited to 30 pieces. Priced at around US$60,000 / 45,000 euros / SGD75,000. Photo: TANG Portfolio. 2013 Watches&Wonders, Hong Kong

Limited to 30 pieces, we agree that this flying tourbillon wristwatch embodies Baume & Mercier’s “values of fine watchmaking” and it is a fitting model positioned at the top end of its Clifton Collection.

What’s more, the tourbillon positioned at the nine o’clock position is symbolic for us. Recall that Baume’s Tourbillon Chronometer pocket watch achieved 91.9 points?

Well, the tourbillon at the nine o’clock position reminds us of this record which stood for 10 years. Therefore, the numbers 9 and 10 are important and based on our own interpretation, having the tourbillon at around 10 is symbolic of Baume & Mercier’s storied past.